The Mall O', adding another hotel wing. |
One of the surrealities of these modern times is that the
Mall of America, forty miles from our home in Faribault, is an international
tourist destination. Folks in Germany and Japan and France buy airline tickets
and arrange vacation trips to Bloomington, Minnesota, to devote—I suppose—a
number of days to explore all that the Mall has to offer.
It is expected that a certain sector of society—namely, the
American husband—will disdain the Mall experience, but I kind of enjoy it, in
the same spirit that I enjoy going to the state fair (and only at about that
frequency); it throbs with a kind of fun energy. (Partly because of all those
people from Germany and Japan and France.) So, although my appraisal comes with
the caveat footnoted below,* I am not writing to deride or denigrate the Mall
O’, but to offer something better—including a better tourist experience for our
international travelers. And for you.
Northfield, Minnesota is a mere fifteen miles from where we
live. It is forty-five minutes for the big-city dwellers of Minneapolis-St.
Paul, and—for those jet-setters—is just as accessible (with an additional
twenty minutes or so) to the International Airport as is the afore-mentioned
Mall. Caryl and I love our home and our life in Faribault (a town with an
interesting history and vitality of its own), but these days our hearts belong in
Northfield, because that’s where Beret and her Joel and their kids—our
grandkids Sam and Violet—live.**
Truth be told, I write this not to lure the Germans or the
Japanese, but to sing the siren song of Northfield to those of you who live
within driving or occasional visiting distance, and, more to the point, just to
lift up what I like about the place.
Northfield is a college town, with two of the nation’s
finest: the beautiful campuses of St. Olaf and Carleton. (Beret and Joel are
St. Olaf grads.) These two anchors lend the town both an air of stability and an
ever-youthful buzz. The downtown sits in a river valley between the two campus
hills. It is this downtown that I initially set out to write about. (I know this is already sounding too much like
a Chamber of Commerce puff piece, but I’ve only just begun….)
Four representative establishments of this little burg
worthy of a visit:
The Rare Pair is already (without my help) a shopping
destination for folks from all over the area—and for parents and alums who are
dropping off college kids or returning for the Christmas Festival or a concert.
It offers the perfect blend of the latest hipster threads and a more
traditional stylishness. The RP clientele is probably 80% women, but there’s a good
men’s section that has both of those categories, too.
I'm not sure if my Stormy Kromer cap, from the Rare Pair, is hipster or traditional |
Beret works at the Rare Pair. I used to tell people to “look
for the beautiful blond,” until I realized that she was one of many. (And—only
in Northfield—for a while she was one of two “Berets” in the store.) Everyone
at the Rare Pair is friendly and welcoming and helpful—no matter what their hair
color.
Goodbye Blue Monday is the Platonic ideal of a coffee house.
Décor (what décor?), selection, vibe, efficient but friendly baristas. (Oh, and
the almond croissants!) I have read that to get the best espresso you have to
go to Italy. Well, I went to Italy this summer, and I came back to Goodbye Blue
Monday (okay, I was coming back anyway). I found nothing better in Italy (in
fact, a lot of push-button machine espresso drinks). GBM does it by hand and produces a consistently
excellent cup. Some of the baristas even know how to do that picture thing on top
of the perfectly formed crema.
The Tavern Restaurant. Built into the ancient stone walls of
the lower level of the historic Archer House Hotel. Always full of happy
diners; always friendly. It has become—for Caryl and me—our “local.”
But le Coeur de ville
of downtown Northfield is Content Bookstore. It is for me both an oasis and a
reprieve. A reprieve because, as I have confessed elsewhere, the last bookstore
left Faribault as I was happily clicking away on Amazon. But no more. For a variety of reasons, I now use
Amazon for research or as a last resort. The most
important reason is that I simply want this bookstore to stay here—to be here for me. For
us. This means I have undergone an attitude adjustment: Instead of clicking on
Amazon, I email my friends at Content and inquire, “Can you order for me….”
Instead of looking
impatiently at my watch, drumming my fingers and expecting the Amazon serf/elves to deliver an
order to my doorstep in the next ten minutes, I am happy to pick up my books during our next trip to Northfield (see “Grandkids,” “Blue Monday,” and “Tavern,” above).
I fantasize that—in my relationship with the bookstore—I will develop the same quirky
correspondence and lasting mutual affection as that between book-seeker Anne Bancroft and bookseller Anthony Hopkins in “84 Charing
Cross Road.” (I guess that puts me in the role of Anne Bancroft; I hope my
Content friends find me as charming.)
Content sells books both new and used. |
(By the way, if I’m looking for a special sauté pan or paring
knife, I buy it or order it from The Measuring Cup kitchen store—right next
door to Content Books. A few more bucks (than Amazon), a bit of a wait, and another excuse for a latte across the street at Blue Monday! Attitude
adjustment.)
Since this is not, in fact, a Chamber of Commerce piece, I am
not going to list every last business in Northfield, but we appreciate many
more: The Ole Store Restaurant, Tandem Bagels, the Contented Cow pub, Grundy’s
hamburgers at The Reub (or is it The Reub hamburgers at Grundy’s?)….
And I am not completely discounting those international
tourists. They really oughta come to Northfield. When Caryl and I visited
England, we had a wonderful time in London, but what gave heart and soul to our
experience were places like Wath-in-Nidderdale and Chipping Norton and
Woodstock and Padderdale. Not to mention Madderdale. And, in the same vein, we
discovered that our English hosts were interested in the wild American west.
What better place for them to visit than Northfield, whose doughty citizens and
shopkeepers defeated Jesse James and his gang in 1876.***
In a stroll of a mere two-and-a-half blocks, a visitor can
walk from The Tavern, to Blue Monday, to Content Bookstore, to the Rare Pair--and end up at the very bank doors out of which the James Gang ran for their
lives.
Then back up the street to the Tavern Lounge. (Did I mention
that there’s a bar above the restaurant? Just off the Archer House lobby.)
I’ll
meet you there after you pick up your bookstore order.
______________________________________________________________
*I don't want to inject politics into this homey post on Americana, but I was dismayed at the ham-handed way the Mall responded to the recent "Black Lives Matter" demonstration. I agree with the defendants' lawyers that the Mall ought to be considered a public square.
**Just as our hearts are also tugged toward Boston/Quincy, Massachusetts, where our Anna lives. Another place in which we love spending time. We're looking forward to a visit in three weeks.
***The captured members of the James-Younger Gang were jailed and tried in Faribault, the county seat. I like to tell my Northfield friends that this means that Faribault really defeated the gang, but they don't buy it.
Northfield has developed a beautiful walkway along the Cannon River. Here it is set up for the annual Market Fair. |
NOTE: I think of this blog as part of a conversation. I realize that the "Comment" section of this site is unwieldy, but I invite you to try it. For the time being, the only alternative is to share your responses to this essay on Facebook, either to my Timeline, or as a private Facebook "Message." (I actually prefer email, but the trolls make it difficult for me to post my address here.) I value your part of the conversation.